Mahajanga Today

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Mahajanga is a hot but breezy town with a large Indian population.

The province is slowly opening up to ecotourism, with easily accessible hotspots such as Ankarafantsika National Park and the fly-in resorts contrasting with the barely accessible region to the southwest.


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A wide boulevard follows the sea along the west park of town, terminating near a lighthouse.
At its elbow is the Mahajanga baobab, said to be at least 700 years old with a circumference of 14 m.
These area comes alive after dark: indulge in the local life by sampling the delicious zebu brochettes being barbecued along the street.


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The History of Mahajanga (Majunga)

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Ideally located for trade with East Africa, Arabia and western Asia, Mahajanga has been a major commercial port since 1745, when the Boina capital was moved here from Marovoay.

One ruler of the Boina was Queen Ravahiny, a very able monarch who maintained the unity of the Boina which was threatened by rebellions in both the north and the south.


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It was Mahajanga which provided her with her imported riches and caught the admiration of visiting foreigners.
Madagascar was at that time a major supplier of slaves to Arab traders and in return received jewels and rich fabrics.
Indian merchants were active then, as today, with a variety of exotic goods.


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Some of these traders from the east stayed on, the Indians remaining a separate community and running small businesses.
More Indians arrived during colonial times.


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During the 1883-85 war, Mahajanga served as the base for the military expedition to Tana which consolidated the French Protectorate.
Shortly thereafter the French set about enlarging Mahajanga and reclaiming swampland from the Bombetoka River delta.

Much of today's extensive town is on reclaimed land.
In World War II Mahajanga was seized from the Vichy French by British forces.


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The Sakalava People today

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The modern Sakalava have relatively dark skins.
The west of Mozambique received a number of African immigrants from across the Mozambique Channel and their influence shows not only in the racial characteristics of the people, but also in their language and customs. 


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There are a number of Bantu words in their dialect, and ther belief in tromba (spirit possession) and dady (royal relics cult) is of African origin.

The Sakalava do not practise second burial the qualify of their funerary art (in one small area) rivals that of the Mahafaly; birds and naked figures are a feature of Sakalava tombs, the latter frequently in erotic positions.


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The female figures are often disproportionately large, perhaps recognising the importance of women in the Sakalava culture.

Sakalava Rojalty do not require elaborate tombs since kings are considered to continue their spiritual existence through a medium with healing powers, and in royal relics.


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The West of Madagascar, the History (2)

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By the 18th century the Sakalava Empire occupied a huge area in the west, but was divided into the Menabe in the south and the Boina in the north.
The two rulers fell out, unity was abandoned and in the 19th century the area came under the control of the Merina.
The Sakalava did not take kindly to domination and sporadic guerrilla warfare continued in the Menabe area until French colonial times.


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The Sakalava Kingdom bore the brunt of the first serious efforts by the French had laid claims - based on treaties made with local princes - to parts of the north and northwest , and in 1883 two fortresses in this region was bombarded.
An attack on Mahajanga followed.
This was the beginning of the end of Mozambico as an independent kingdom.


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The West of Madagascar, the History (1)

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The west is the home of the Sakalava people.
For a while in Malagasy history this was the largest and most powerful tribe, ruled by their own kings and queens.
The Sakalava Kingdom was founded by the Volamena branch of the Makoserana dinasty which emerged in the southwest during the 16th century.


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Earty in the 17th century a Volamena prince, Andriamisara, reached the Sakalava River and gave its name to his new kingdom.
His son, Andriandahifotsy - which means "white man" - succeeded him around 1650 and, with the aid of firearms acquired from European traders, conquered the southwestern area between the Onilahy and Manambolo Rivers.
This region became known as the Menabe.
Later kings conquered first the Boina, the area from the Manambolo to north of present-day Mahajanga, and then the northwest coast as far as Antsiranana.


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The West of Madagascar (2)

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This is the region in which to see one Madagascar's extraordinary natural wonders: the tsingy.
Pronounced zing, this is exactly the sound made when one of the limestone pinnacles is struck (they can be played like a xylophone).
It is also a word for "sharp" in Malagasy.


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Limestone karst is not unique in Madagascar, but it is rare to see such dramatic forms, such an impenetrable forest of spikes and spires.
The endemic succulents that struggle for a foothold in this waterless environment add to the otherworldly feeling.
Three national parks showcase tsingy.
Opposite major rivers the sea water along the west coast is a brick-red colour.
This is the laterite washed into the rivers from the eroded hillsides of the highlands and discharged into the sea: Madagascar's bleeding wounds.


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The West of Madagascar (1)

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The west of Madagascar offers a mostly dry climate, deciduous forest - with some excellent reserves to protect it - and endless sandy beaches with little danger from sharks.

It is effectively divided into two sections: the north, with its gateway town of Mahajanga and the south with Morondava providing access.
No roads directly link these two regions - the traveller is obliged to return to Tana of face the uncomfortable but adventurous journey by boutre (cargo boat).


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Otherwise you can fly: Air Mad Twin Otter services connect a dozen towns throughout the region.
There are also daily flights from Tana to Mahajanga and Morondava.
The lack of roads and agreeable climate makes this the ideal area for mountain bikers and walkers.
Adventurous travellers will have no trouble finding a warm welcome in untouristed villages, their own deserted beach and some spectacular landscapes.


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