Tsingy de Namoroka National Park

Although protected since 1966, Tsingy de Namoroka only gained National Park status in 2002.
It is 164 km southwest of Mahajanga and 50 km south of Soalala.

The park offers three distinct circuits (each taking three hours or more) showcasing the dense sub-humid forests of the west, crocodile caves, canyons and savanna - habitats for an impressive array of wildlife.



Among them are 81 species of birds, including the endangered Madagascar teal (Anas Bernieri) and the crested ibis.

The 30 species of reptile include a black-and-yellow striped nocturnal snake (a species of Stenophis) endemic to Namoroka, and the locally endemic side-necked (or big-headed) turtle.

Lemurs include Decken's sifaka, red-fronted brown lemur and western grey bamboo lemur, as well as nocturnal species.

Many of the cave networks in Namoroka are unexplored and unmapped and should be entered only with a guide.

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Baie de Baly National Park

This relatively new National Park is across the bay from Soalala, occupying the better part of the northwest peninsula and extending east across the bay to Cap Sada.

It protects a variety of terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems: mangrove forests, coastal dunes rivers, permanent lakes and dense dry semi - deciduous forests.



The idyllic coastal villages surrounding the park offer visitors a glimpse into the Sakalava way of life.

Bemosary, Maroalika and Batainomby feature the most attractive white-sand beaches on the peninsula.

Camping is permitted, but there are no facilities.

The two must-see inhabitants of the park are the ploughshare tortoise, endemic to the park, and the very rare Madagascar fish eagle.



Baie de Baly also hosts a large community of migratory birds including the greater flamingo.
Dolphins have also been known to trail the outgoing boat traffic.

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Soalala

Only a handful of adventurous travellers come to Soalala, but this fascinating port is gaining importance as the gateway town to Tsingy de Namoroka and Baie de Baly national parks.

There are several very large African baobabs and impressive pachypodiums.
It was previously a French fort and at least two ancient cannons can be seen on the seafront.



There are also many good eating places.
Across the bay is a massive French shrimp farm, Chez la Mere de Nadia; the owner also provides a guide ervice and can organise all-in tours locally, including a 4x4 with air conditioning.



Or you could camp in the quiet area near the beachfront.

Soalala has an airstrip served by Air Mad from Mahajanga or Tana about four times a week.
Taxi-brousses from Katsepy go to Soalala a few times week.
By 4x4 it takes about nine hours, but the road is only passable from May to November.
Alternatively, the boutres (cargo boats) from Mahajanga frequently call at Soalala.

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Mahavavy - Kinkony Wetland Complex (2)

In the Tsiombikibo Classified Forest, near Mitsinjo, are several small beautiful ponds which are the refuge of white-backed ducks and African pygmy geese.

Mitsinjo is the capital of the district but the gateway town is Namakia.



It is a tough place to access independently .
The port of Namakia may be reached in five or six hours by motorboat from Mahajanga but the sea is usually quite rough.
Alternatively, from Katsepy it is three to four hours drive, but the road beyond Mitsinjo is in poor condition and closed during the rainy season.



The town of Mitsinjo has some very basic accommodation and camping is possible too.
The best option in Namakia is La Cercle, with budget and mid-range rooms.

Contact Asity for the latest information on places to camp.

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Mahavavy-Kinkony Wetland Complex (1)

With backing from the NGO BirdLife International (www.birdlife.org) and Asity (www.asitymadagascar.org) this wetland area received protected status in 2007.

The two dozen interconnected lakes, river, delta, bays, marshland, mangroves, forest, savanna and caves included in the 268,236ha reserve form a haven for birders and other wildlife enthusiast.



The wide variety of ecosystems here leads to extraordinary biodiversity, with plenty of fauna: nine species of lemur, including crowned and Decken's sifakas and the mongoose lemur, a similar number of bats, a host of reptiles and, of course, fish.



But it is the birds that cause the most excitement: 143 species.
And this is the only site where all of the Malagasy western waterfowl species may be seen.
July to September are the best months for seeing breeding birds.

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Conservation Areas to the Southwest of Mahajanga, Nosy Boeny

From Katsepy a road, of sorts, provides access to the tsingy, and wetlands which are of great interest to anyone who loves Madagascar's diversity of landscape, plants and wildlife.

Access is exceptionally difficult, however, so even adventurous travellers may prefer an organised tour.

Nosy Boeny (Nosy Antsoheribory): this is a small island, about a kilometre long, in Boina Bay, with some fascinating Antalaotra ruins dating from the 16th century.



The ruins include several cemeteries, houses and mosques.

The island is sacred to the local people so camping is prohibited - but day visits are allowed.

To reach the island, start from Katsepy and continue by road to the village of Boeny- Ampasy on the west side of the bay, where there are bungalows.

A 1 -1/2 hour boat journey brings you to Nosy Boeny.

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Fly-in Beach Resort, Anjajavy

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Anjajavy (www.anjajavy.com)

Anjajavy is about as good as you can get in Madagascar.
This is not just a luxury seaside hotel: in addition to its 24 villas it protects 450 ha of Madagascar's dwindling dry deciduous forest.
In some places this grows right on the tsingy limestone.


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Wildlife viewing here is effortless, including Coquerel's sifakas, brown lemurs, mouse lemurs and sportive lemurs.

Birds include flocks of bright green grey-headed love-birds, sickle-billed vangas, crested ibises, crested couas and vasa parrots, to name just a few.



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You may also see ground boas, hognose snakes and plenty of chameleons and beautiful butterflies.

There is a couple of caves too, spectacular enough with stalactites and stalagmites (and bats), and one with the skulls of an extinct lemur species embedded in the rocks.


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Perhaps most startingly for botanists, Anjajavy and Moramba Bay hold an undescribed species of cycad trees.
Then there are the coral reefs, tsingy, pristine beaches and extensive mangroves ..... not to mention total comfort, good service and superb food.


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Three nights is the minimum stay, five allows you to appreciate all that this amazing place has to offer.
Note that arrivals/departures must be scheduled to coincide with flights unless your group is large enough to warrant an additional flight of the 8-seater Cessna.


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Anjajavy offers a range of land-and water-based activities.
Some, such as guided forest walks, are included in the rates.
Other free activities include sailing, windsurfing, snorkelling, mountain biking and visits to the surrounding villages.


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For a longer excursion there's the magnificent Moramba Bay (15 km / 45 minutes by boat), a must for any nature enthusiast.
It is an equally wonderful spot for relaxation, with a good beach, lovely swimming pool and "oasis" garden.
There is free WI-FI in the restaurant/pool area and some villas.

Anjajavy works with a local school and NGO to benefit the local communities.


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Fly-in Beach Resort, La Maison de Marovasa - Be

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La Maison de Marovasa-Be (www.marovasabe.com)

Located some 15-20 km north of Anjajavy, in Moramba Bay, this lodge is accessible by light aircraft from Mahajanga (45 minutes) or Tana (2 hours).

There are three suites and six luxury rooms, all with en-suite bathrooms and balconies.
The location is, perhaps, not as attractive as that of the other two lodges, and its forest has suffered from slash-and-burn agriculture (tavy).


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However, the hotel itself is beautifully thought-out and offers true luxury with a beautiful swimming pool and other amenities.

The owners are also involved with Ecole du Monde, a local NGO working to benefit local communities.
Their work includes reforestation projects, and guests can contribute by planting a tree.

As with all these lodges, the rates are full board and include a motorboat for exploring the area.


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Fly-in Beach Resorts, Lodge des Terres Blanches

If you look on a map of Madagascar, you'll see a glorious expanse of nothingness along the indented coastline between Mahajanga and Nosy Be.

This is where three entrepreneurs have established fly-in Resorts which come as close to perfection as you could hope for.

Lodge des Terres Blanches (www.lodgeterresblanches.com)
About 100 km from Mahajanga and 25 km south of Anjajavy, this lodge really does qualify for the cliché "best kept secret" (at least from English-speaking tourists) since it sees far fewer visitors than Anjajavy or Marovasa Be and no tour group.

Access is by light aircraft or boat.



There is quite simple, but comfortable accomodation in six double bungalows next to a gorgeous white beach fringed with forest.



Compared with the luxury lodges this is a simple, do-it-yourself resort.
Guests eat together in the lodge, and there is a bar with fridge for guests to help themselves.
Electricity is by generator.
If you want to go on a longer hike, or to be dropped off in a cove somewhere for the day, picnics can be arranged.



This is a popular resort for sport-fishermen, and the two boats are largely used for fishing trips.
However, you can arrange to be taken to some beautiful coves along the coast, or to baobab-arrayed islands, or to an area of tsingy.


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Project Angonoka

Ankarafantsika is also home to the Angonoka Tortoise Programme operated by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust.

This is one of Madagascar's most successful captive breeding projects.
After many years of research, ploughshares - the world's rarest tortoises - are now breeding readily and are being reintroduced to their original habitat.



Almost as rare, the attractive little flat-tailed tortoise (kapidolo) is also being bred here, as is the Madagascar big-headed/side-neckled turtle.

The site is fortified as a result of thefts, so it is possible for tourists to glimpse them only through a chain-link fence.

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Ankarafantsika National Park, the Circuits (2)

Circuit Ankarokaroka (3 hours) offers a hike through forest and savanna to the canyon, an amazing multicoloured erosion feature.
There's plenty of wildlife to see en route, or you can go to the canyon by vehicle.



Night Walks (1-1/2 hours) will give you the chance to see mouse lemurs and chameleons.

Boat Trips (1-2 hours) are the best way to see Lake Ravelobe - particularly rewarding for birders and a good chance of sighting crocs.

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Ankarafantsika National Park, the Circuits (1)

There is a very good trail system.

The shortest and easiest is Circuit Coquereli (1 - 1/2 hours), on which you may see sifakas and brown lemurs.

More botany-focussed is Circuit Retendrika (2-3 hours), which is also good for birding.



A visit to the park's famous pachypodiums will take about two hours.
A similar lenght of time is required to go and see the tall Adansonia madagascaridiensis baobabs, but if you're pressed for time you can drive part of the way.

On Circuit Source de Vie (3-4 hours) you will gain an insight into local culture and everyday rural life.

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Ankarafantsika National Park, Flora & Fauna (2)

Wildlife - viewing in Ankarafantsika starts as soon as you arrive.

Right beside the parking area is a tree that Coquerel's sifakas use as a dormitory.
They are extremely handsome animals with the usual silky white fur but with chestnut-brown arms and thighs.



On your walks you may also see mongoose lemurs, western woolly lemurs and sportive lemurs; and this is the only place where you might see the g0lden-brown lemur, Microcebus ravelobensis.

If you're keen to see crocodiles they may be sighted year around, but the best months are July to October.

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